Despite the fact that many women trust exfoliation and highly appreciate facial peeling, this procedure actually gives and how harmful it can be to the skin only experienced clients of beauty salons know. The debate about the indispensability of peelings and that professional cleaning can cause discomfort, as well as even more aesthetic problems, are still relevant. They are based on the dual nature of exfoliation. Indeed, on the one hand, peels really erase defects and imprints from the face, and on the other, they injure the skin, making it thinner and drier.
- 1 What gives chemical and physical exfoliation
- 2 Differences between “physics” and “chemistry” in peelings
- 3 Possibilities of peelings of different depths
- 4 The danger of peeling
What gives chemical and physical exfoliation
The benefits of peelings are confirmed and undeniable, they are spoken about everywhere: in advertisements, cosmetology clinics, beauty salons, women’s forums and otzovik sites. The Internet space is replete with photographs and stories about magical transformations thanks to expensive cosmetic manipulations or proven home techniques. Whatever the exfoliation, its mechanism does not depend on the place of the procedure and the type of peeling agent. Any peeling involves a deep release of facial skin from a dense layer of keratinized epidermis.
One may be puzzled by the question: why exfoliate dead scales precisely with peeling, because mechanical scrubbing with natural abrasives also removes old cells and dirt without risk to the skin.
The “crust” of the corneal epidermal layer becomes thicker every day: every day, billions of new cells replace obsolete cells and push them to the surface. The skin alone cannot throw off a dense keratose “mask”, and scrubbing with ground coffee beans, cane sugar or rubbed fruit seeds removes only part of it, leaving microscopic scratches. Over time, the growing epidermal “crust” slows down the natural regeneration of cells, preventing their “breathing” and saturation with useful trace elements from creams, serums and masks. As a result, the complexion fades, the lines of wrinkles deepen, and inflammation and pimples form on the site of the ingrown hairs.
Peeling procedures not only help to disrupt, but also completely polish the extra cells of the old epidermis from the face.
The skin perceives physical destruction or chemical “dissolution” of its upper layer as a signal to action: the dermis awakens to repair and doubles the formation of collagen and elastin filaments. “Fibers of youth”, being the main building material of the skin skeleton, help smooth out wrinkles and tubercles after acne and comedones. Stimulation of internal blood circulation gives the face freshness, dullness and blush. Peeling polishes past aesthetic defects: scars and scars, pigmentation and freckles, spider veins and rosacea, greasy skin and acne.
Differences between “physics” and “chemistry” in peelings
Depending on the type of peeling, professional facial cleansing is carried out using various techniques and peeling products.
Mechanical exfoliation involves exfoliating dead skin flakes with scrubbing products for peeling or hardware exposure. The first include special cosmetic formulations containing coral chips, coffee beans, crushed fruit seeds. The mechanical mechanical techniques are ultrasound, cryoteparia (exposure to the skin with liquid nitrogen), dermabrasion (polishing the stratum corneum with a cosmetic cutter) or brushing (updating the epidermis with continuously rotating brushes).
Chemical exfoliation involves treating the skin with acid solutions in a special medical concentration (from 15 to 35%) or enzymes. Acidic compositions, in contact with the skin, cause a provoked chemical burn of obsolete epidermal cells and their subsequent detachment. Torn away, old cells expose young and perfect skin, devoid of past aesthetic flaws. Enzymatic peels contain enzymes that “absorb” the dead keratin layer. Enzyme peeling refers to soft and natural methods: enzymes are not rejected by the body, because they are always present in it. But by the 35 years of production of these enzymes is not enough to remove old cells.
Chemical peels are multifunctional cosmetic procedures. For one procedure of acid exfoliation, a woman can get rid of diverse appearance defects, starting with the consequences of acne and ending with old scars or burns. At the same time, chemical peels require a neat attitude and professional performance.
Hardware exfoliation includes laser resurfacing, gas-liquid peeling and microcrystalline dermabrasion. In all cases, skin rejuvenation and cleansing are performed in the salon using expensive cosmetology equipment. Laser resurfacing of the skin is carried out with a neodymium laser with different wavelengths. The laser beam “cuts” old skin, stimulating accelerated regeneration. With microdermabrasion, the dead epidermis is removed using brushes with diamond spraying, and with gas-liquid peeling – with a saline stream enriched with oxygen molecules. Hardware exfoliation is considered an expensive pleasure, but at the same time it has a long and noticeable effect after the first procedure.
The depth of exposure to the skin of the peeling agent or hardware technique finally determines * whether face peels are useful. Peeling * can be superficial, median and deep.
Possibilities of peelings of different depths
The effectiveness of peelings and the benefits of the procedures directly depend on the depth of penetration of the peeling “agent” into the skin. It can be as acid or enzyme formulations for exfoliation, scrubs or hardware rejuvenation. The deeper the peeling agent touches the layers of the skin, the more problems can be solved simultaneously with such exfoliation.
Superficial peels against “teenage” complexes
Superficial exfoliation is considered a mild cosmetic procedure aimed mainly at easy exfoliation of the upper layer. Microelements or abrasives of gentle peels affect only 0,06 mm of the thickness of the keratinized epidermis. Such an effect is sufficient for gentle renewal of the skin without the risk of side effects. Most often, cosmetologists recommend superficial peels to girls up to 25 years as the main assistant in the fight against skin greasy, black spots and acne.
Superficial peels help to cope with such aesthetic shortcomings as:
- slight pigmentation after prolonged sun exposure or tanning in the solarium;
- a grid of shallow facial wrinkles;
- dull complexion;
- increased greasy skin;
- acne and acne;
- enlarged and clogged pores.
Middle peelings: face without age
In order to determine what median peeling is useful for, it is necessary to clarify that this technique allows the cosmetologist to work on 0,45 mm of the thickness of the skin. The active ingredients of peeling preparations, ultrasonic and light waves affect the epidermal cells and the upper layer of the dermis (papillary). In addition to aesthetic problems, with the help of median exfoliation it is possible to forget about age-related changes in appearance. Median peels are assigned to young ladies after 30-35 as a way to eliminate such shortcomings as:
- age wrinkles;
- density and bumpiness of the skin after dermatological diseases;
- dark age spots;
- rosacea and rosacea;
- omission of facial tissues (age-related changes in its contours);
- sagging skin.
Median peels using acid solutions and hardware manipulations are considered the “gold standard” of rejuvenation. The effect of such procedures is noticeable after the 2-3 session. But cosmetologists allow women to use the capabilities of median techniques only after 30 years.
Deep peels as an alternative to plastic
Specialists call deep facial peels an alternative to surgical lifting and the construction of a subcutaneous framework of gold threads. These methods are characterized by soreness and a large list of contraindications, because as a result of the procedures, peeling compositions destroy 0,6 mm of the skin thickness. That is, the entire horny epidermis, as well as the papilla and the reticular layer of the dermis. Deep peelings are carried out only under local anesthesia and are strictly forbidden to women up to 45-50 years. Thanks to such major updates, deep exfoliation allows you to get rid of such defects as:
- deep folds of age wrinkles;
- loss of skin tone and elasticity, ptosis of soft tissues of the face;
- dark hyperpigmentation;
- scars and scars from injuries and acne;
- grayish, yellowish complexion.
The indisputable arguments in favor of superficial and median peels will be the following facts:
- peels polish keratinized epidermis, which interferes with respiration, regeneration and nutrition of the skin;
- exfoliation courses help lighten complexion and improve skin microrelief;
- as a result of peeling, many aesthetic defects disappear: facial and age wrinkles, inflammatory rashes, comedones, brown spots, scars and scars;
- exfoliation creates the effect of visual rejuvenation: after peeling sessions, a woman can “lose” at least five years.
The danger of peeling
Many people forget about the wonderful properties of peelings, and some cosmetologists are silent about the fact that any exfoliation (especially median or deep) causes severe skin injuries. Artificially caused acid burn of I degree of severity or mechanical “removal” of the upper layer of the epidermis is a tremendous stress for the dermis, causing it a serious load.
By activating cell division of the deep basal layer, the skin wastes its resources. The true picture of what happens to the skin as a result of peeling can be observed only under a microscope. The scale of the destruction and the subsequent regeneration of cells make us seriously think about the “benefits” of peelings.
- regular exfoliation thins the skin, provoking its dryness and increased sensitivity to cold, ultraviolet light, wind and some cosmetic preparations;
- the constant “provocation” of cells to artificial division shortens their lifespan. Peelings spend resources ahead of schedule on genetically engineered terminal cell renewal;
- frequent peeling, on the contrary, leads to early aging;
- concentrated acid compositions of chemical peels cause severe swelling, erythema and deep pigmentation;
- frequent or improperly performed acid peels can provoke the appearance of rosacea (vascular network) and the formation of dense scar tissue at the site of exposure to the composition.
Face peels as the main tool for cleansing and rejuvenating the skin have approximately the same piggy banks of pros and cons. Even professional cosmetologists do not have a definite answer to the question about the unambiguous benefit or exceptional harm of exfoliation for facial skin. Therefore, the “golden mean” will be the decision to leave the peeling suitable for you as a regular supportive skin care and to comply with the measure in their application.