Yellow peeling or Jessner, which has a better effect on the skin and suggests a shorter rehabilitation period – this worries many who decide to surface-median exfoliation. It is believed that peeling based on retinoic acid is an analogue of Jessner’s multi-acid exfoliation. In some cases, one peeling even complements another. The list of indications for yellow and three-component peelings is approximately the same, the effectiveness is also comparable.
Features of retinoic cleaning
Retinoic peeling, also known as retinol or “yellow”, is an effective method of cleansing the skin with acid solutions, which is of the borderline, surface-median type. Beauticians recommend applying to retinoic exfoliation not earlier than 30 – 35 years – the procedure is suitable for mature skin by the depth of exposure to the active components of the composition, and young skin can be harmful.
The basis of cosmetic preparations for “yellow” peeling is retinoic acid in a concentration of 35% acceptable for safe contact with the skin. Retinoids are synthesized analogues of natural vitamin A, which a person receives daily from food. In the case of serious defects in appearance and as a therapy for dermatological diseases, a peeling agent based on retinoids is enhanced by the action of vitamins E and K, ascorbic, phytic or azelaic acids. Sometimes the catalyst in retinoic peeling is Dimexide, a medical preparation that accelerates the penetration of acid molecules through the keratinized epidermis.
Exfoliation with retinoic acid leaves a persistent yellow film on the face, which is recommended to be washed off after 8 – 10 hours after peeling. For this feature, skin cleansing with retinoids was called “yellow.” Retinoic exfoliation is prescribed to rejuvenate and correct aesthetic imperfections on the face, neck and décolleté.
The value of retinoic procedures lies in its high efficiency: to achieve a noticeable result, which is stored on the 3 – 4 of the month, one or two retinoic cleansing is required. Then the course of “yellow” peelings is repeated.
The benefits of retinoic peeling
Retinoic acid peeling has a complex effect. Exfoliation contributes to the soft destruction and detachment of keratosis, a dense layer of dead epidermal cells, has an antiseptic and anti-inflammatory effect, and stimulates the natural formation of collagen and elastin protein fibers, as well as hyaluronic acid molecules. As a result of retinoic peeling, the skin “wakes up” for regeneration and rejuvenation.
Retinoic exfoliation procedures help well:
- increase blood circulation in the network of large vessels and capillaries;
- moisturize the skin and nourish the inner layers of the dermis with trace elements;
- release the skin from a dense layer of keratinized epidermis;
- reduce friability of the skin and smooth out the microrelief;
- get rid of the network of shallow facial and age wrinkles;
- lighten age spots;
- reduce the manifestations of acne, cleanse and narrow pores, free hair follicles from sebaceous plugs;
- reduce the number of comedones and inflammatory rashes;
- get rid of the symptoms of photoaging;
- refresh the complexion.
With mild aesthetic imperfections of the skin, retinoic peeling is prescribed by the cosmetologist as the only therapeutic technique. With serious symptoms of dermatological diseases or age-related changes, retinoid peeling acts as part of a comprehensive treatment or as a preparation for deep procedures.
Who needs retinoic exfoliation?
The main indications for the “yellow” peeling are:
- friability and sagging of the skin, loss of elasticity;
- prolapse of soft tissues in the lower part of the face;
- uneven skin after acne and other dermatoses;
- decreased synthesis of collagen filaments;
- a network of facial and age wrinkles, especially in the eyes and lips;
- light scars and scars left after pimples or injuries;
- increased skin greasy due to hyperactivity of the sebaceous glands;
- Black dots, milia, enlarged and clogged pores;
- thickening of the epidermis due to dead cells;
- age and ultraviolet pigmentation;
- dryness and peeling of the skin.
The ideal time for retinoic exfoliation is from late October to early March. Retinoids in the composition of cosmetic products expose the upper layer of the skin, reducing its barrier function and resistance to ultraviolet radiation. Therefore, spring and summer are unsuitable seasons for “yellow” peeling.
Jessner Peeling: 3 Beauty Component
Jessner peeling is a multi-acid superficial or mid-surface treatment for professional skin cleansing. Jessner’s exfoliation compound combines three main chemical ingredients: salicylic and lactic acids with resorcinol. To obtain a peeling product, the components are mixed in equal proportions. According to individual indications, the classic prescription of Dr. Max Jessner is enhanced by glycolate, citric acid or isopropyl.
The traditional Jessner peeling obtained by an American doctor during a random experiment has a twofold nature: depending on the number of layers of the peeling agent applied to the skin during exfoliation, and their exposure, the procedure can only be superficial or superficial-median. How many layers of peeling agent is acceptable for the patient, the cosmetologist decides.
For the gentle surface effect of the multi-acid composition on the skin, peeling is applied to the face once. This causes a slight reddening of the skin, which already passes through 2 of the day, and subsequent peeling of the obsolete epidermis. Superficial peeling can be an independent procedure for owners of sensitive, dry or young skin. As well as preparation for other serious median or deep techniques.
For the surface-median effect of acids and resorcinol on the skin, Jessner peeling is applied to the face 2 or 3 times. In this case, the acidic “cocktail” completely destroys the entire epidermis to the basal layer of the dermis, but without injuring the inner membrane. A chemical burn causes extensive flushing with the formation of a hard crust. After 4 – 5 days after peeling, the skin begins to peel and exfoliate.
The value of multacid exfoliation
The proportional acid composition of Jessner peeling helps to simultaneously cope with many diverse aesthetic problems: hyperactivity of the sebaceous glands, enlarged and clogged comedones of hair follicles, fine wrinkles, extensive age-related or ultraviolet pigmentation, a dense layer of outdated epidermal cells that spoil complexion.
- 14% salicylic acid in the traditional Jessner peeling recipe endows the cosmetic with antibacterial, keratolytic and anti-inflammatory properties. The compound dries the skin, normalizes the production of skin sebum, relieves swelling from inflamed pimples, and reduces the sensation of skin itching;
- 14% lactic acid gives Jessner’s acidic composition a brightening, moisturizing and keratolytic effect. Lactic acid evenly softens the hard stratum corneum of the epidermis and stimulates the natural production of collagen and elastin fibers;
- 14% resorcinol. This chemical component of the peeling has an antiseptic and drying effect. It complements and at the same time enhances the properties of the previous ingredients of Jessner’s classic composition.
When to sign up for Jessner’s peeling
Using Jessner’s peeling recipe will not hurt if:
- excessive production of skin secretion by the sebaceous glands;
- acne, clogged pores with comedones or miliums;
- expansion of the hair follicles from pollution;
- an abundance of inflamed pimples;
- the appearance of a network of small and shallow facial and age wrinkles;
- age spots of various etymologies;
- dull complexion;
- loss of skin elasticity and tone;
- hyperkeratosis – thickening of the upper layer of the epidermis due to.
In individual cases, the effect of lifting from Jessner exfoliation can be comparable with the results of injections of youth: biorevitalization, Botox, dysport or mesotherapy. Visual rejuvenation of the face after Jessner peeling is stored for 2 – 3 months.
Retinoic vs Jessner: which peeling to choose
Fans of cosmetic procedures sometimes compare exfoliation, Jessner peeling or yellow, which is better for the skin? These peels are similar in indications and the depth of penetration of acidic solutions into the epidermal layers. In some cases, one exfoliation can complement and reinforce another. For example, cosmetologists often practice the following treatment regimen for problematic and porous skin: the 2 layer of the Jessner peeling composition and the final layer of the retinoic mixture.
Along with the same indications, Jessner’s “yellow” peeling and cleansing differ in effect and skin reactions to acidic cocktails. During retinoic exfoliation, cosmetology patients often complain of burning and tingling of the skin, which independently passes through 20 minutes after applying retinolic acid. Some women have an allergic reaction, itching, redness and swelling of the skin. Despite the fact that Jessner peeling is considered to be a more aggressive cleansing technique, for many women the multi-acid procedure is milder, and rehabilitation after it is faster.
On the third day after Jessner’s peeling, cosmetologist patients notice a strong tightness of the skin, which visually manifests itself as a noticeable facial rejuvenation for at least 5 years. The skin becomes smooth, the enlarged pores are narrowed and cleared of sebaceous plugs, the number of comedones is reduced by at least half. 3 days after Jessner’s peeling, the skin begins to peel and exfoliate, the effect of express rejuvenation passes. At this time, it is important not to tear off the scales and strictly follow the recommendations for post-peeling care. But peeling does not last long – only about 2 – 3 days.
Some cosmetologists believe that Jessner’s peeling in many ways loses retinoic exfoliation. Despite the fact that multi-acid peeling solves several aesthetic problems at the same time, the effect of it is weaker than that of peeling with retinoids.
Delicate retinoic peeling does not tighten the skin, peeling passes evenly, also manifesting on 3 day. Patients of cosmetologists rarely complain of dryness or profuse detachment of the skin after yellow exfoliation. Many say that the skin feels more comfortable than after peeling Jessner. After a two-week recovery period, the face becomes younger, cleaner and fresher.
Which of the two similar peels to choose: retinoic or Jessner peeling, each woman decides independently. In this case, only a professional cosmetologist becomes the best adviser. The effect of both peelings on problematic and oily-prone skin lasts approximately 3 months, on age and pigmented skin – on 4 months. Then exfoliation can be repeated. However, many women note a greater effect of retinoids and they are preferred in choosing the next cleansing.